Re: FUEL COOLERS /PROBLEM SOLVED AFTER 8 YEARS NO MORE LEAVI

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Re: FUEL COOLERS /PROBLEM SOLVED AFTER 8 YEARS NO MORE LEAVI

Unread postby 'borrallo5858@yahoo.com [Lesharo-owners] » Thu Sep 15, 2016 11:48 pm

I think if lines are route the right way you dont need a fuel cooler.. But if works for you thats all it matters





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Re: FUEL COOLERS /PROBLEM SOLVED AFTER 8 YEARS NO MORE LEAVI

Unread postby Lesharo-owners » Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:09 am

This is a real problem that everything has been tried on. Your hoses (witch act as heat exchangers if long enough might be right for you where you live but my friends from the hot climes are still looking for fixes....for them, this should work.
Remember IMHO


Larry Sr
lsrschoppe@aol.com




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Re: FUEL COOLERS /PROBLEM SOLVED AFTER 8 YEARS NO MORE LEAVI

Unread postby dudedog » Fri Sep 16, 2016 11:17 am

Nice to know this is available. The only time I have had issues is when the temps are near 100. One time it cost me a tow charge until this site told me what happens. I have found since, just 15 min sitting and the ls fires right up. It is a real problem though.


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Re: FUEL COOLERS /PROBLEM SOLVED AFTER 8 YEARS NO MORE LEAVI

Unread postby David Martin » Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:26 pm

Fuel vapor lock w/ my 3.5 Chrysler conversion takes place boiling gas
between gas tank and fuel pump, not after fuel pump. Higher exhaust heat,
plus 2 exhaust pipes close to the fuel line and fuel pump often resulted in
a brief start up on fuel in fuel rail then die out and 30+ minute cool down
after parking briefly on a hot day. One fix is to move fuel pump to outside
of frame rather than inside. I instead wrapped exhaust in that area w/ hot
rodder fiberglass tape, plus shielded fuel pump and inlet line with
reflective mylar bubble wrap, plus added a 12 volt marine bilge fan outside
the frame blowing into the now enclosed fuel pump area as needed. I control
when it blows with an adjustable fan thermostatically controlled switch
that has constant 12 volt input feed thru an inline fuse on a direct from
12v positive under dash constant hot wire not thru the ignition switch.
Thus it cools down by running the fan to blow relatively cool air from
outside the vehicle frame directly on to the fuel pump immediately after
parking until the temperature on the probe in that area drops, then it
shuts off. When restarting a few minutes later the fuel supply to the fuel
pump is again liquid, not vapor, and it continues to run rather than dying
when I drive away


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